about kobe geography

  This map shows the Kobe waterfront. It gives you an idea about the geographical constraints of this city, whose main pier was constructed in the Meiji era (1868-1912, when Japan opened to outside trade for the first time in 200 years). This main pier was called "Meriken", probably for the American traders whom it hoped to host. 

The city squeezes between the toothy waterfront with all of its piers and shipping activities, and the steep green hills that form its backdrop. To create more habitable terrain, several artificial islands have been constructed out of fill, such as the one in the lower right of the image, called Port Island. 

I visited Port Island accidentally on my bicycle two weekends ago. As you can read in an earlier post, I had assembled my bicycle and set out at sunset for a ramble. I went by the waterfront, and soon was circuited under a tangle of elevated freeways, bridges and pedestrian routes. I took one likely looking elevated pedestrian bridge and found myself over water. Finding myself on the island, I stuck to the edge, where I found a boardwalk looking back toward Kobe's downtown. At the end of the boardwalk, a huge ship unloaded its goods. This was pretty impressive, so I sat and watched for a while. When I'd had enough, I was about to turn back but I saw that the boardwalk continued just a little more. I went on...

...and found a group of fishermen leaning against the railing in the dark. They were fishing in the dark, and to keep track of their tackle, each had tied a floating light to his line. After the big ship and the elevated freeways, it was so quiet there. It seemed more quiet because the only sound were hushed conversations, children chasing one another, water slapping against rocks. The scale had changed dramatically, adding to the mystery. It was as if I'd stepped backwards in time in a particular way--people used to paddle around in the waterfront in long thin boats lit by paper lanterns. Jinnai Hidenobu talks about the "ludic space" of the Edo period (1603-1868) waterfront, where people could escape everyday life on the water. They would dress in elaborate costumes, dine in their boats, go see some theatre...it was all very romantic. Here they are again using the waterfront for a spontaneous nighttime ludic space. As I watched, someone nearby caught a fish, pulling it out of the water and slapping it on the concrete.

 

Here's an assembled perspective looking from the international student center to downtown Kobe and beyond. The college is one of the last collections of buildings before the terrain is given over to the steep hills. From the college, one can take a cable car up the hills to a mountain called Mt Rokko. Near Mt Rokko is a hot springs resort.

1. Osaka airport, across Osaka Bay, where I flew into Japan

2. Rokko Island, the other major manmade island of Kobe

3. Rokkomichi station, the train station I use to get to school

4. Port Island

5. Waterfront and downtown Kobe